Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Allons Enfants de la Patrie Or, My Retribution


(A second subtitle of this post should be "Holy Overuse of Hyperlinking, Batman.")

And now, a(nother) word from our political sponsors.

As I’ve mentioned before, it’s French election season, and thank God it’s not as long as American election season, which, really, is all the freaking time.  On the last day of my zone’s vacation, first weekend of zone B’s, and smack-dab in the middle of zone C’s, France had its first round of elections.  If you don’t remember from my French Government 101 primer, France has two rounds of elections to narrow down the field from everyone with 500 signatures and a soapbox to two.  (However, if a single candidate gets a majority of the vote — 50% — he or she automatically becomes president.)  Much of the talk surrounding the first round, or premier tour, circulated around 1) whether Sarkozy or Hollande would come in first, 2) whether either Le Pen or Mélenchon had enough power to knock off Sarkozy (the only ones who asked this particular question assumed a feeble Sarko), 3) whether the election falling in the schools’ vacations would screw everything up, and 4) who would come in third place.  I’ll treat each of these questions in one manner or another.

By the way, if you’re not interested in politics or French politics, you can go ahead and skip this one; I personally think understanding a country’s political process is paramount in understanding the culture, but I know some people don’t care about their own country’s politics, let alone a country that speaks an entirely different language.  I don’t understand it, but I know it.

Mélenchon had made a late surge in the polls before the premier tour, starting with a giant march and rally at the Place de la Bastille in Paris, a symbolic choice, as the storming of the Bastille prison in 1789 helped kick-start the French Revolution.   

From TF1's website.

Since that rally, in which thousands of people participated, the far-left Front de Gauche candidate had been battling Marine Le Pen in the polls, and some people worried whether or not having a second strong leftist candidate would hurt Hollande’s chances of passing into the second round of elections.

Strange.  That is exactly the same argument put forward in the United States when an “outside,” third-party candidate threatens to run in a presidential election: they will end up harvesting votes from the left.  Pundits were all ready to blame Ralph Nader for Al Gore's defeat in 2000.  Why doesn’t this happen with the right?  No one worried that Marine Le Pen would steal votes from Sarkozy; ditto for any threat Ron Paul or Joe Lieberman could pose if they decided to run as a 3PC in the U.S.  Is the right, in any country, so complacent that once they find a candidate, they fall into line and do not change their minds?  Is the left so malleable that they could change their intentions right up until the last minute?  Probably yes in both cases.

But it didn’t matter in any case.  Election night, April 22, 2012 saw the succession of Messieurs Hollande and Sarkozy to the deuxième tour — in that order, besting a sitting president in the first round for the first time during the Fifth Republic.  I tuned in to see what kind of hoopla France would offer, as each main station promised election coverage starting at 6 PM.  I don’t know why I expected a greater circus than there was; perhaps because I’m used to an election that takes place over four time zones with “swing states” in each zone.  But besides a countdown clock ticking away in the corner of my screen, a blurred out image of two people representing the two remaining candidates, and nation-wide coverage of reactions and candidates’ campaign headquarters, the hoopla seemed minimal.  No CNN-style interactive, floating maps; no endless amounts of graphics about demographics; no 3D holographic Will.I.Am reporting live from a random park.  Disappointing, but I enjoyed the countdown clock all the same.  They did show one interesting graphic, however: the turnout rate was somewhere around 80%.

What.

80%!

In.  Sane.

You’d be hard-pressed in the States to cobble together a turnout rate of 80% even if you smashed a handful of election years together.  Granted, I don’t know if the rate is eligible voters/people of voting age or if it’s only those registered to vote (if that exists), but even so, the rate is astronomical and above all admirable.  In this arena, France totally has the right to criticize the United States.  They may complain about everything, like, all the freaking time, but no one can say that they don’t do anything about their complaints; they take their civic responsibilities extremely seriously, which shows when they go to vote and then the next day(/week) when they dissect everything around the water cooler.  In mini conclusion, the fact that the entire country was on school holiday at the time barely affected a thing.  And if it did, holy crap, my brain would explode.

The percentages kept changing marginally throughout the course of the night, but the rankings didn’t, and that Mélenchon came in a relatively distant fourth.  Third: Marine Le Pen, who started the night with a whopping 18.7% of the vote and finished with 17.9%.  At this part of the conversation, people in the staff room become serious, furrowing their brows and dropping their smiles.  The fact that Le Pen won that many votes — greatly outdistancing anything her father did, even when he proceeded to the second round in 2002, truly scares the rest of the population that didn’t vote for the crazy chick.  Despite the Socialist and the Conservative proceeding onwards, a strong showing by the Fascists could mean a changing parliamentary presence (elections are in June) as well as an underlying contempt for foreign presence that isn’t as under the surface as previously thought.  In fact, Marine Le Pen seems to be campaigning for just that.

Over the week leading up to Sunday’s deuxième tour, the more mainstream runners up had still been grabbing headlines by publicly declaring for whom they would — or would not — vote.  The very night of the first round, Mélenchon declared his allegiance to Hollande without even warning the latter’s camp.  Or his own for that matter.  And while it may seem self-evident that parties of the same general political ideological branch would support one another, that’s where you’d be wrong, but I’ll thank you to hold all questions ‘til the end.

FrançoisBayrou, who has been on a perpetual, Ross Perot/Ron Paul-like crusade for the presidency for the past ten or more years, stated in a press conference held after the only debate that he would not explicitly tell his supporters to vote for a specific candidate, but he himself would cast a ballot for Hollande, as he did not want une vote blanche, a clear dig at Marine Le Pen.

Because, yes, the crazy bitch is casting a blank ballot.  Instead of backing Nicolas Sarkozy, the candidate nearest her ideological beliefs, and instead of being logical, she urged every Front National supporter to cast a blank ballot in protest of just where exactly this country is headed.  Now, I understand the notion of protesting through the ballot box; really, I do.  But at a certain point, you have to put on your big kid pants and make a decision whether you like your choices or not; you cannot sit back, arms crossed and pouting, just because you are unhappy.  Again, I understand and fully support protest.  But when your protest could actually harm your cause, I don’t think you should keep trying to cut off your nose to spite your face.

Let’s quickly return to French Government 101 boot camp for a moment.  In those two weeks between the premier and deuxième tours, the candidates are allowed to campaign as much as their little hearts desire, but there is only one debate, and they must stop all campaign meetings, rallies, speeches, and baby kissing as of midnight the Friday before the Sunday election. That is a wonderful, wonderful thing.  Although you can be damn sure the election was on everyone’s lips (and TV screens and radio channels and newspapers), you didn’t have to see the candidates’ faces all the freaking time.  In fact, most of the air time was dedicated to dissecting who would get Le Pen’s and Bayrou’s constituents.

The debate was remarkable only for the fact that the candidates sat at the same table; twin time clocks ticked below each side of the table to show that they would get equal time; and Hollande actually sounded rather presidential.  Like in any debate, neither candidate rolled out exciting new plans.  Instead, everyone rehashed everything he’d been saying for the past couple months, and Hollande repeated, “moi, comme président de la république” a lot, with which cartoonists had a field day the next day.

As for Jour-J, or The Torture’s Finally Over! Day, La Flèche broke out its patriotism in the form of pretty little flags strung up all over town as well as an excess of cars and people around the nearest kindergarten school which also happened to be the nearest bureau de vote/polling office.  I resolutely ignored any regular TV channels all day so that I wouldn’t ruin the atmosphere I had built up around this election.  I wanted to keep my bitterness for American elections, thank you very much.  Like everyone else in France, I tuned in at 19h30 to watch the countdown (it had started way before then, but I invoke the bitterness rule aforementioned), and everyone seemed to be sitting on hand buzzers — the atmosphere was that charged.  They peeked into Hollande’s office after he had already received the news, just like last time, but even though he tried to remain detached, he broke into a small grin and waved at the camera.

I didn’t give it much thought, as reporters were then kicked out of the room and tried to talk to Hollande’s extremely pretty son, and I was kinda distracted.

Are you distracted yet?

The clock approached 20h00, and the announcer counted down with it, eventually revealing at exactly 8PM that François Hollande would be the next president of France.  I’m not too ashamed to say that I let out a little whoop.  The massive amount of Hollande supporters gathered around the plinth of the column in the Place de la Bastille in Paris exploded in bonker-like enthusiasm; Sarkozy supporters gathered in La Mutalité fell to the floor weeping.  I’m not kidding: I saw one teenaged girl sobbing, and her mother reached over her shoulder to hand her a tissue, but when the girl went to grab it, she saw she was on camera and tried to hide her tears.

(Not mine.) Party on the left...
...Not so much on the right. (Not mine.)

Sarkozy’s speech was predictably conciliatory despite the crowd’s blatant rudeness at losing the election — he had to speak over vociferous boos every time he mentioned Hollande’s name and had to remind them that he was speaking at least three times — and Hollande’s speech was nothing out of the ordinary.  Bayrou and Mélenchon offered brief congratulatory statements while Marine Le Pen used her air time as a chance to urge all Front National supporters to seek their revenge during the parliamentary elections next month.  The world’s leaders called to congratulate the president elect, and both David Cameron and Angela Merkel walked back their Anti-Hollande Pact from earlier in the year.

I could go on about voter demographics, the fact that Sarthe is one of the few in my corner of France to vote mostly gauchist (as you get towards the coast/the rich people, you tend to find more Sarkozy supporters; go figure), a subject which I think is super interesting, especially when you see how tendencies in France shift from election to election, or the fact that this round’s turnout rate was even higher than the premier tour, but I’ll get onto my actually interesting point: how the rest of the world views Hollande’s election.

The basic answer: with massive amounts of fear and a capital AH.

The New York Times and the Washington Post, let alone European newspapers like The Daily Mail and Der Spiegel, now all express extreme doubt as to whether or not the Eurozone can handle their crisis.  All newspapers unite the Hollande election, the recent collapse of the Netherlands’ government, and the anti-austerity results of Greece’s parliamentary elections under one giant banner: Europe is a-gonna implode.  And fast.  Every single American news article about the subject is fraught with tension and nail-biting fear that most European countries are going to declare bankruptcy, the Euro will fail, and the rest of the world will plunge into an economic depression so deep that everyone will die oh my God.

I must say, from the inside, it doesn’t seem anywhere near that bad.

Yes, when I visited Spain, both Barcelona and Madrid put on a happy façade for tourists that barely masked the desolation most Spaniards feel daily.  Yes, all of Europe wants to take Greece by the shoulders and shake them until their brains start working again.  Yes, England has all but washed their hands of the Eurozone and their petty problems.  But there are very few people over in my part of the world that think the Euro is doomed, and most of them lean towards the Front National way of thinking.  Call it denial if you want, but where I’m at, I just don’t feel the hopelessness that both encompasses the United States and saturates its newspapers.  Everyone is optimistic that with just a little more persistence and hard work, they can dig themselves out of this massive rut in which they’ve found themselves.  And maybe on the way they can find Greece’s collective brain.

Most of France is ebullient about their new president, and they’re looking forward just like America looked forward after the 2009 elections.  Hollande has taken some cues from Obama in terms of how to extract France from the brink of recession, mainly a little more spending and investing where some others may cut, cut, and cut some more.  That cutting is called austerity, and by Hollande’s way of thinking, Sarkozy tried the austerity path, and it merely brought the country even closer to the edge of the cliff.  He wants to tax the top 1% of money earners at a 75% tax rate for a couple months, then peel back that tax rate to a proportional rate, essentially rolling back the tax breaks that Sarkozy put in place.

Sound familiar yet?  Good.  And believe me, talking about money is about as painful as you having to read my yammering about it, so this is kinda important.  And it has a point.

American newspapers have quoted economists who have basically fainted over Hollande’s plan.  It’ll capsize France.  It’ll handicap one half of the cornerstone of Europe.  It’ll kill Europe’s economy, then the U.S.’s, then the world’s.  It’ll eat babies.  Now whether you agree with this line of thinking or not, you have to understand that this is exactly how economists treat every new idea that involves actually letting go of money.  It’s exactly how they react to Obama, and granted, the France/Euro/Europe case is different — especially since no one in Europe wants this plan to fail, unlike in the States where it seems like everyone attacks everyone else over economic solutions — but still.

Okay, I hate talking about economics, but let me just say one final thing: regardless of your political ideology or economic preference, you must agree that if Franklin D. Roosevelt listened to any economists like these, the Great Depression might have become the status quo.

But anyways, in the end, leaving President Sarkozy and President-Elect Hollande came together to celebrate the 8th of May, the day the Nazis surrendered, under the Arc de Triomphe.  They stood side by side in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, paying respect to all who fell during that black period.  In the end, some things are bigger than politics.

(Not mine.)

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Day Twelve: Getaway Day


Hello! After a more-than-three-week absence, I am continuing with Winter Vacation!  With only a couple weeks left in France, I might be posting a lot less as I spend as much time as I can actually living, and what posts I do make will be current, real-time posts instead of recounting my vacations.  But since there are only a couple days left of my Winter Vacation, I will try to finish that one, at least. Once my contract ends, I will continue recounting my vacations here, as I think those vacations still have stories to tell that can't be recounted in pictures alone.  So, in conclusion, stay tuned!  It's gonna be a hodge-podge couple of weeks!  And without further ado, here's Day Twelve.

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Day Eleven: We Paid for That?!


Holy crap, no one move: we woke up this morning, and no one had stolen any of our food!  I was flying, angels were crying, and pigs were singing or something like that.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Day Ten: I Would Walk 500 Miles


Is it really worth it anymore to complain that food got stolen?  No?  You’ve started taking it for granted?  So have I.  (In case you were wondering, it was my yogurt.)

Today we dedicated to Petrín Hill and the buildings we only wanted to see, so we steeled ourselves to walk clear across the city to the bottom of Petrín Hill, and we traipsed merrily along for about six blocks until Verity realized she had left her phone on her bed in the hostel: big no-no, especially when yogurt and pears weren’t even safe (and I’m putting away the bitter now).  She retraced her steps, promising to meet me at the funicular stop using public transportation so that we would theoretically arrive in the same place at the same time.

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Happy Birthday to Me!


It’s my birthday!  It’s the second one I’ve spent in France: my first time “studying abroad” in Grenoble fell over my 17th birthday, and my host family made a sign for me with my name spelled “Bekkie,” and we had chocolate cake for breakfast.  Rockin’.  This time, I had planned a weekend-long birthday celebration including the obligatory trip to the pub and even an appearance at a boȋte/French nightclub, but my plans got all jumbled up.  After going to Caen, I did end up going to the pub, but so did all the English students and their correspondents, and none of my teachers were available to even out the score, so I left relatively early.  Saturday night, Valérie hosted a going away party for the Huddersfield English teachers, so I treated that as a pseudo birthday party in my head.  But then when I walked by the pub on Sunday morning on my way home from the marché, I learned that it was closed until April 6th, so no real party at the pub.  Oh well.  Best laid plans, and all that.  And to boot, I woke up the morning I turned 25 with an achy hip.  So, RAMBL, I guess my hash tag would be #25or55.

I Swear I Speak English


When Valérie informed me that the English exchange students would be taking a trip to Caen near the end of the stay and had extended the offer to me, I jumped at the chance.  (Well, more exactly, I did a little jig.)  After getting excused from my two classes that Friday, it was set.  Now all I had to do was board a bus with 31 kids I didn’t know and three adults who I ate lunch with once.

We all spoke English and French, right?  We at least had that in common?

Day Nine: Did We Really Do All That?


I’ve had enough.  This morning, two of Verity’s four pears were stolen, and now you get to suffer through a rant, so fasten your seatbelts kids: this could get punctuation-y.